Discover our favourite day trip from São Martinho do Porto: Mafra Palace, historic bells, charming Ericeira and a delicious Atlantic-view lunch at Costa Fria.
From Royal Palaces to Rosé by the Atlantic: Our Day Out in Mafra & Ericeira
THE VILLA 6 SILVER COAST JOURNAL · PORTUGAL DAY TRIPS
One of the things we love most about having a home on Portugal's Silver Coast is how easy it is to discover somewhere completely different in a single day. A little history, a good coffee, a beautiful coastline and, naturally, a long lunch. What more could you ask for?
First stop: A pingado, a pastry and a palace
Our day began with a drive south from Villa 6 Silver Coast in São Martinho do Porto towards the historic town of Mafra.
The plan was to visit the magnificent National Palace of Mafra before heading over to Ericeira for lunch beside the Atlantic. A nice balance of culture and indulgence — one of our favourite combinations!
But first, coffee.
We found a lovely little café directly opposite the palace and settled down with a pingado — a Portuguese espresso with a splash of milk — and a delicious cinnamon pastry.
Sitting outside in the sunshine, looking across the enormous palace square, was the perfect start.
There's something rather wonderful about the Portuguese café culture. Nobody appears to be in a terrible hurry, coffee is taken seriously, and a pastry at eleven in the morning seems entirely reasonable.
We could get used to this. Actually, we already have.
Mafra Palace: A rather grand way to spend the morning
Nothing quite prepares you for the sheer size of the National Palace of Mafra.
Built during the reign of King João V in the 18th century, this extraordinary UNESCO World Heritage site is much more than a palace. It incorporates a basilica, a former convent, royal apartments and a remarkable historic library.
The complex also reflects the wealth and ambitions of the Portuguese monarchy during a period when Portugal's empire extended across several continents.
Standing in front of the building, we couldn't help wondering how something so enormous was constructed almost 300 years ago, without modern machinery.
And then we stepped inside.
The formal courtyard garden.
Beautiful corridors and architectural details.
The beautifully preserved rooms, enormous corridors, decorative ceilings and intricate stonework give you a fascinating glimpse into royal life.
But beneath all the grandeur, it's also worth remembering the thousands of people whose labour and craftsmanship made this extraordinary building possible.
The bells of Mafra — who knew they could be so fascinating?
One of the most unexpected highlights of the visit was an exhibition about the famous bells of Mafra.
Now, I'll admit, I hadn't expected to leave a palace visit talking enthusiastically about bells.
But here we are.
The bell exhibition, historic mechanisms and the beautiful Mafra Peace Bell.
Mafra is famous for its two magnificent carillons — collections of tuned bells that can be played almost like a giant musical instrument.
They were commissioned from Flanders during the reign of King João V and are considered an exceptional part of the palace's heritage.
Seeing the original mechanisms and learning how these enormous instruments work was genuinely fascinating.
We also saw the Sino da Paz de Mafra, the Mafra Peace Bell, a contemporary work celebrating the symbolic power of bells to bring people together.
It's wonderful when a museum teaches you something you never realised you wanted to know.
A glimpse into royal life
From the exhibition, we continued through the palace's royal rooms.
Some rooms are grand and ceremonial, filled with paintings, chandeliers and ornate furniture. Others offer a more intimate look at how the Portuguese royal family lived.
The decorative ceilings are particularly beautiful. The craftsmanship and detail seem endless.
The royal bedroom, with its deep red upholstery and elaborate wooden bed, was another highlight.
And then there was the hunting room.
Antlers everywhere. On the walls, across the ceiling and even incorporated into an extraordinary chandelier.
An unforgettable room, although perhaps not everyone's first choice for home decorating inspiration!
There was so much to absorb that we found ourselves looking up at ceilings, down at beautiful marble floors and through windows onto elegant courtyards.
Mafra really deserves the time to explore properly.
From royal splendour to the Atlantic: Ericeira
After our morning immersed in Portuguese history, it was time for a complete change of scenery.
We headed west towards Ericeira, one of the prettiest seaside towns along this stretch of the Atlantic coast.
Ericeira has a personality all of its own.
Whitewashed buildings with bright blue details, narrow cobbled streets, colourful little corners and the unmistakable sound of the Atlantic crashing against the rocks.
It's a town with a strong fishing heritage, now equally well known for its surfing culture.
We wandered through the streets, enjoying the views over the fishing harbour, stopping to admire the traditional houses and taking far too many photographs.
There is something about these seaside villages that makes you want to slow down.
No particular destination. No need to rush.
Just enjoying being there.
And, of course, all that exploring had given us quite an appetite.
Lunch at Costa Fria — and what a lunch!
We'd booked a table at Costa Fria, and what a lovely discovery it turned out to be.
Perched near the Atlantic, with the sea stretching away in front of us, it was exactly the sort of place we'd hoped to find.
A relaxed atmosphere, beautiful coastal views and food that really deserves your attention.
We started with wonderful toasted bread, delicious peppers and a selection of dishes to share.
Then came the scallops, beautifully presented in their shells, topped with colourful herbs and sauces. Almost too pretty to eat.
Almost.
The calamari, aubergine dish and tartare followed, each bringing something different to the table.
The tartare was particularly memorable, beautifully seasoned and full of flavour.
And, naturally, there was a glass of chilled rosé.
Because when you're sitting overlooking the Atlantic, eating fabulous food in the Portuguese sunshine, it would seem rather rude not to.
What we particularly enjoyed was the combination of creative cooking and a genuinely relaxed seaside atmosphere.
Nothing overly formal or complicated. Just really good food, thoughtfully prepared, in a beautiful setting.
Costa Fria's kitchen is led by chef Athanasios Kargatzidis, whose approach combines coastal ingredients with inventive cooking.
It's the sort of restaurant that makes you start planning your next visit before you've finished lunch.
The scenic route home
After lunch, we spent a little more time enjoying Ericeira.
The traditional white houses, blue-painted doors and vibrant bougainvillea seemed to capture everything we love about Portuguese coastal villages.
Eventually, it was time to head north again towards São Martinho do Porto.
We took the opportunity to enjoy the coastal scenery on our return, reflecting on how much we'd managed to experience in one day.
An extraordinary royal palace, fascinating history, wonderful architecture, a beautiful seaside village and an unforgettable lunch overlooking the ocean.
And all within reach of Villa 6 Silver Coast.
Why we love days like these
Living in or visiting Portugal isn't just about the sunshine and beautiful beaches, although we're certainly not complaining about either.
It's about discovering the little places that make a holiday memorable.
A café you hadn't planned to stop at. A museum exhibition that surprises you. A hidden street bursting with colour. Or a restaurant where lunch turns into an occasion.
That's what we love about exploring the Silver Coast.
There's always another village, another view, another little piece of history waiting to be discovered.
And the best part?
At the end of the day, you can return to Villa 6 Silver Coast, pour yourself something cold and start planning tomorrow's adventure.
With love from Portugal,
Beverley & Marc
Villa 6 Silver Coast
Plan this day trip from Villa 6
* Mafra Palace: Allow around 2–3 hours to explore, depending on the exhibitions open.
* Ericeira: Leave time to wander around the fishing harbour, beaches and colourful streets.
*Parking can be difficult so leave time to find a place.
* Lunch: [Costa Fria Restaurant](https://costafria.com/
Rua Capitão João Lopes 4, Ericeira. Booking ahead is advisable, particularly on weekends.
* Our tip: Wear comfortable shoes for the palace and Ericeira's cobbled and take a jacket for the windy ocean breeze if you want to set outside.
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